The Ultimate Botswana Adventure; a 2 week Overland Safari Through Northern Botswana, 2015

Imagine…

two weeks of daily game drives in the wilds of Botswana,

two weeks of supported tent camping, and

two weeks of photographic opportunities at 360 degrees.

I couldn’t dream of a better way to experience the national parks of Botswana.

In early 2015 my husband and I were taken by the possibility of experiencing Botswana and her environment on a personal level with an organized photographic tour. The plan for this journey included 13 nights spread out across six privately held campsites within several national parks of Northern Botswana. We hoped that this overland adventure would immerse us in the vast landscapes of fossilized lake beds, of endless grasslands, and of wild forests. These landscapes materialize for us in more dramatic visions than we had imagined and would provide the backdrop for a fortnight of incredibly diverse wildlife sightings.

We met with our group, of like-minded wildlife enthusiasts, in Victoria Falls and immediately loaded into our Land Cruiser to begin the first leg of our journey to the Makgadigadi Salt Pans. Our safari in October was scheduled to coincide with the end of Botswana’s hot, dry winter season. Shrubs and trees were only just beginning to send out their green shoots increasing our odds for sighting wild animals and birds without the coverage that summer foliage will soon provide. Our hopes were satisfied, that first day we spotted elephant, giraffe, warthog, baboon, sable, antelope, and many bird species along the main tar road to the Nata Bird Sanctuary.

Upon our arrival to Nata, in late afternoon, we were impressed with the variety of birds in those dry, flat grasslands. Our guides so competently identified each species for us. Gradually we observed a distinct pink line on the distant horizon. Our Botswanan guide, Mike, explained that the image before us was thousands of migratory flamingos roosting in distant pans, this was our evening destination.

During the wet season the area pans had be filled with water gradually evaporating until by the end of the dry season, during our visit, all but the largest pans have completely dried out. Migratory flamingos, almost annually, will seek these last pans filled with brackish water, as their breeding grounds. We found a simple landscape of dried, white, saline crusted pans; shallow water reflecting the blue sky; and pink-winged flamingos as the focal point for our first sunset.

The next day, before sunrise, we climbed into our 4X4 Land Cruiser and head out to the Nxai Pan National Park. We skirted along giant salt pans, remnants of another time when the Kalahari was a vast ocean, fossilized white depressions fringed with grasslands and Acacia Savannah.  Many animals migrate through these harsh landscapes in search of known water holes, offering us fantastic opportunities to observe and photograph wildlife. I remember our first evening in Nxai Pan, we parked near a water hole, just in time for the best light, to watch giraffe arrive and nervously bend down for sips of this precious resource, ever so watchful.

By day three we are now accustomed to our pre-dawn tea and toast ritual. Mike always made sure we were on the road by sunrise and this morning we were rewarded for our diligence. Not far from last night’s water hole we encountered two male lions sauntering in that glorious ethereal light.  This proved to be our first of seven lion encounters during the safari. Experiences like these were largely due to our guide, Mike, and his intimate knowledge of Botswana’s parks.  He found amazing locations for wildlife viewing.  Additionally, Jamie Thom, our photographic guide made sure that our truck was positioned for the very best photographic opportunities during these sightings.

After spending 4 days in the semi-desert of the Nxai Pan area, we headed to the Okavango Delta for an afternoon boat ride. The Okavango, one of Botswana’s prized jewels, is the largest freshwater inland delta of the world.  We soaked in the lush green stands of reed, grasses and papyri lining the banks while photographing hippo, crocodiles, elephants, swallows, and numerous bird species from a new and welcome perspective. We boated to an island rookery fully occupied by roosting Marabou and Yellow-Billed Storks.  From our boat we quietly watched and photographed the mama and papa storks flying in and out of trees carefully protecting their fragile new chicks from predators.  One of the joys of traveling with other photographers is that we all preferred to watch scenes play out before us, no one was in a hurry.

During our trip we stayed in two areas of the Moremi Game Reserve encompassing 8 game drives, all of which presented new and unexpected experiences for us.  On one magical morning we encountered a large pack of the African Painted Dogs. We were able to observe them cavort, hunt, and complete a kill, as a healthy pack of wild dogs should. Given the endangered status of African Painted Dog, Botswana’s commitment to wildlife conservation was evident to us. For example the national parks of Botswana are unfenced merging seamlessly with protected rural areas. This policy allows wild animals to roam more freely here than any other African country. 

Chobe National Park was our last wilderness destination providing thrills to the end. The uninterrupted wilderness leading into this area was inspiring and inexplicitly like a homecoming for me, perhaps due to my deep joy for being in the wilderness. Here, during a morning game drive, we saw the full moon setting as the blazing sun rose. We experienced four different leopard sightings including a magnificent female successfully taking down an adult lechwe antelope.  Herds of elephants marched right in front of our truck on their way to the Chobe River. And every night, from our tents, we were treated to the sounds of hippo barking, stealth footsteps of unseen mammals, strange bird calls, and the deep roar of lions that never fail to stir my inner core. 

This Ultimate Botswanan Photographic Adventure was a taste of a wild African experience. Our guides ensured that each day was organized and that our needs were met. Jamie offered constructive individual photographic support. His suggestions for framing animals and landscapes in new and different perspectives stretched our photography styles and our photographic eyes.

Botswana Itinerary:

Victoria Falls
Makgadikgadi Salt Pans
Nata Bird Sanctuary
Nxai Pan National Park
Moremi Game Reserve
Okavango Delta
Khwai River area
Savuti
Chobe National Park
Victoria Falls