Queen Elizabeth National Park

October 18, 2026

A stop-over in-between other national parks

We travelled through the Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP) on two different occasions. Once, we drove through from Kibale National Park to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, another time we drove through to Mgahinga National Park. On both occasions, I didn’t understand why QENP failed to seduce me as other Ugandan parks had. In retrospect, I understand that my travel partner had everything to do with my lacklustre experiences. He was preoccupied by his hard-kept secrets at home, hardly present with me at all. Months later, I understand that his emotional discontentment affected my entire holiday, something like the emotional equivalent of second-hand smoke polluting your personal space while your trying to enjoy the flavors and aromas of a fantastic meal.

Not all holidays are joyful.

The ecosystems I enjoyed in QENP:

Kazinga Channel connecting Lakes Edward and George
Grasslands
Swamps
Tropical rainforests
Kyambura Gorge

Palm Nut Vulture perched on Euphorbia or Candlabra Tree

Kazinga Channel

We followed the travel guide’s advice and boated on the Kazinga Channel during our first visit to QENP. Birding from a boat is always a great perspective, but I wouldn’t say that I would recommend paying for this excursion.

Pink-backed Pelican

White-throated Bee-eater

Pied Kingfisher

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater

African Whattled Lapwing

Goliath Heron

Great Comorant

Grey-headed Kingfisher

Wahlberg's Eagle

Wildlife sightings along the banks of the Kazinga Channel were scarce

Kyambura Gorge

On our second visit I insisted that we trek with chimpanzees in the Kyambura Gorge. As we descended the gorge through the dense tropical forest with our guide, we heard elephants trumpeting down below. By the end of the afternoon we had crossed the gorge, reemerging on the other side only to see elephants chasing chimpanzees from a fig tree on the plains. I never imagined we would see chimpanzees in the grasslands, an absolutely stunning sighting. The Kyambura Gorge hike was environmentally different and much more difficult physically than chimpanzee trekking in Kibale NP. I certainly recommend treking chimps in the Kyambura Gorge!

Middle-aged Chimpanzee

Fig Tree enjoyed by chimps and eles

(Bronze) Sunbird

Border of QENP

A specialist Guide is Essential in QENP

QENP is well-trodden. Farmers are pressuring the boundaries from every direction, there are small villages located inside the park that pose their own threats to the landscape with their fishing, cattle grazing, and other activities. The best way to explore the un-developed areas of this park is to rely on a knowledgeable guide.

Consulting with Coffee Farmers in Eastern Uganda

October 4, 2026

Colonial-era Campus of the Buweswa Growers Cooperative Society (BGCS)

In the Field

“We’re going to climb today to visit another savings group, remember?”

Yes I remember, visiting farmers in the field is the best part of the week for me. The clouds look thick this morning, I am anxious and ready to move. He notices my eyes glancing towards the door, “We can’t get there before 11 AM, because the farmers are in the fields all morning,” says John. Yes, I remember this too, but all the same once the daily rains start the mountain roads are slick trenches of mud. “Good, you wore your good boots today, you will move very well,” John says appreciatively.

John is the Manager of the Buweswa Growers Cooperative Society (BGCS), located in Mufufu village. We have been working closely together since I arrived at site a fortnight ago. The BGCS property is the center point of the village, and my little colonial-era cinder block house is right on top of its hill. I can see mountainous coffee farms covered in mist from my front porch.

This will be the ninth savings group that I have visited. Our window of opportunity is narrow because the rains begin at 1 PM, or earlier. We begin trudging up the muddy road, still sticky from last night’s showers. Boda Bodas come from both directions hauling supplies going up, and people coming down. Villagers are heading to the main road several kilometers down the mountain. We reach the tiny village at the top of the mountain behind my house, about a 45 minute hike, and we keep climbing. I haven’t had a chance to really explore these high altitude villages because of the rainy season but this morning the clouds parted, and we feel the full force of the equatorial sun on our faces. Small holder farmer families have built their homesteads close to the mountain road; they tend to their various plots spaced throughout the district. We stop to greet everyone; they are all curious to hear a foreigner greet them in Lumasaaba.

After another 45 minutes of hiking, we reach the savings group who have gathered in a church building on top of an adjoining mountain. The church is missing a wall, a welcome open-air shelter. Our group of farmers are all very much at home, calmly looking over the coffee farms and mountain vistas, comfortable in the cool mist. “Let the meeting commence.”

Coffee Gardens, matoke, mountainous agriculture

Central Uganda

October 4, 2026

catching the rooster

At 17:16 the weavers flew in. There were well over 100 nests with male birds flitting about above my head.

We figure it out, often with support of family or friends, a community of love. Settling into routines, we fix our surroundings, we argue, and some of us flutter about more than others.

Technical Immersion

Somehow I find myself in a modest hotel in central Uganda. I was fed plates of matooke, rice, and beef two times today. I suddenly remember that rural communities world-wide graciously feed their guests out of pride and gratitude. Mennonites might feed you roasted chicken with green beans and potatoes. Malagasy will certainly offer an abundant plate of rice with a bit of tasty sauce. Here, west of Kampala we enjoyed hearty plates of steamed plantain, rice, and stewed meat with broth, always enough to keep us fortified for the day.

… back alone in my room, the weaver nests are quiet as guests are enjoying late night beverages at the bar. Sleep will arrive easily tonight.

Kidepo Valley National Park wildlife

September 29, 2026

Jackson’s Hartebeest is very relaxed on the savannah

Ungulates and Birds

Kidepo Valley is the first National Park I visited in Uganda. It was over New Year’s 2025. There I met tourists from EU countries like Greece and England, Ugandan families from Kampala, but no-one from the U.S.
I understand why. Kidepo doesn’t support the wildlife diversity that tourists will find in the national parks of Southern Africa or other East African countries. Historically lions and cheetahs used to be sighted in Kidepo, but not in 2025.
Situations can change in national parks if the national wildlife authority renews its interest in a particular region and if non-profit conservation groups begin to work with the federal and local governments. Perhaps positive changes have already occurred since white rhinos were introduced to the park in 2026.

My favourite sightings

I enjoyed my stay at Kidepo, despite the absence of predators. The ecosystem there is an extension of South Sudan and Western Kenya environment which includes vast savannahs, mountains, and open vistas.

elephants

The small herd of elephants have probably suffered from poaching. The herd was nervous and avoided our truck all morning.

Giraffe

I enjoyed spending a few minutes with a small herd of Nubian Giraffe. As I was watching these critically endangered giraffe a minibus of tourists drove up. They disembarked to take selfies and the giraffe herd quickly ran away. It was my only giraffe sighting during my stay at Kidepo.

Ungulates

I saw many Ugandan Kob, buffalo, and other ungulates, so there is plenty of food for predators. I hope lions return to this rugged and remote park.

birds

Common Bulbul

White-browed Coucal

Silverbird

Croaking Cisticola

Whinchat

Malachite Sunbird

Scarlet Chested Sunbird

Speckled Pigeon

Flappet Lark

Rufous-naped Lark

Grey-backed Fiscal

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater

Purple Warbler

Abyssinian Roller

White-browed Coucal

Red-fronted Barbet

D'Arnaud's Barbet

Stout Cisticola

Mustached Grass Warbler

Yellow-throated Longclaw

Black-crowned Tchagra

Spot-flanked Barbet

Black Crake

Yellow-billed Shrike

Greater Painted Snipe

Black-crowned Night Heron Juvinile

Malachite Kingfisher

Red-cheeked Cordonbleu

White-crested Helmet Shrike

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill

Jackson's Hornbill

Red-necked Spurfowl

Crested Francolin

Helmeted Guineafowl

Speckled Mousebird (??)

Yellow-throated Longclaw

Pearl-spotted Owlet

I stayed at Kidepo Savannah Lodge, part of a larger chain of lodges located around all of Uganda’s national parks. The staff were lovely, and my private room looked out across the plains. Beautiful.

travel notes

travel africa, Karamojong, Pastoralists, Karamoja

A drive into the Karamoja Region

travel africa, Karamojong, Pastoralists, Karamoja

Karamojong, Karamoja, travel africa, Pastoralists, African Agriculture, Uganda Birds, Twitchers

Holiday in Karamoja, Northeastern Uganda

Karamojong, Karamoja, travel africa, Pastoralists, African Agriculture, Uganda Birds, Twitchers

Birds and Squirrels - Semliki National

August 4, 2026

Semliki National Park (but sometimes spelled Semuliki?)

I have been intrigued by central Africa, ever since I heard Madame Riess coo about her time in the Congo. She and her husband lived there with their young children. Monsier Riess filmed footage for French documentaries. They would have been in the 1970s. I allowed Madame Reiss to freely reminisce, my French skills weren’t sufficient enough to ask questions. She smiled and waved her arms as she described the emotional impact that the Congo had on her and her husband. She yearned to re-visit the place that changed her, where she raised young children with other Congolese women. By the time I met Madame she was blind and frail of body; we both knew that a return trip to Africa was only a dream.

I thought of her again recently, some 20 years after our meeting. We had stayed in her flat during our first visit to Nice in the early 2000s. Madame Reiss was a marvelous hostess. She made sure we knew our way around her neighborhood and shared a glass of sherry with us when we returned from a day of bicycle riding. Now I was living alone in Uganda as an American volunteer, somewhat overwhelmed by loneliness and the lack of natural space. I often wonder what would Madame Reiss do in my place.

Soon enough, I contacted a travel company in Kampala to arrange a tour of Ugandan national parks. Since Semuliki National Park is the westernmost park, I added it to the itinerary. Semuliki is located in the Congo Basin. The Rwenzori mountains isolate Semuliki from the rest of Uganda, so the environment and its citizens have more in common with the DRC than with the rest of Uganda. Madame Reiss would approve of this choice.

Morning drive through the Rwenzori Mountains

The road from Fort Portal goes through the Rwenzori Mountains to Semliki National Park.

Brown-breasted Kingfisher, Semuliki NP

Scarlet-chested Sunbird in Semuliki NP

Grey Headed Kingfisher, Semuliki NP

Semliki National Park is known for its diverse birdlife, flying squirrels, and hot springs.

Great Blue Turaco

Black-casqued Hornbill

What I learned in Semuliki National Park

Be prepared for all weather. It was very hot and sticky under the thick canopy of the rainforest. Later that afternoon the weather turned wet and chilly.
Mornings are best, birds will be singing and the soft light will enhance your photography.

A word about Semliki

Semliki Vally is in the Congo Basin in a very remote area of Western Uganda

Sometimes Semliki is spelled Semuliki
The Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve is on Lake Albert. It includes vast savannah and riverine ecosystems. It is a very different environment than Semliki National Park
Semliki National Park is a difficult 90 minute drive from Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve
Semliki National Park is a twitcher’s paradise, bring an expert birding guide!

Don’t do an injustice to this interesting area of Uganda by rushing through it. Too often Ugandan travel guides organize a visit to Semliki Valley as a day drive from Fort Portal. That won’t be enough time.

A drive into the Karamoja Region

July 30, 2026

road trip through the Karamoja Region, Uganda 2025

FEAR

Living in East Africa
A man attempted to break into my house, threatening to rape me from 2-3 AM
A young man was brutally murdered outside my bedroom window
I fell through a cement cap into a cistern of sewage

Through these experiences, when I was thrown off-course, I learned that the best coping mechanism is to control my landing.

“Not to have felt pain is not to have been human.”

— The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel SE5

The Karamojong

My Ugandan counterparts warned against visiting Northeastern Uganda. I was told, that the Karamojong men steal cattle and they are armed. After experiencing significant health and safety incidents in three different regions of Uganda, fearing cattle rustlers wasn’t pertinent.
Instead, I was intrigued by the idea of visiting a region that is overlooked by most tourists, Uganda’s most rugged and least-populated sectors. I hired Kanzira, a guide, to drive me through Northeastern Uganda to Kidepo Valley National Park both for safety concerns and for efficiency’s sake. I only had a week’s holiday from work.
The region named Karamoja pre-dates modern political boundaries. It encompasses the southeastern section of South Sudan, a bit of Southern Ethiopia, a large swath of Northwestern Kenya, and the Northeast corner of Uganda. Karamoja is a semi-arid, sparsely populated land that has supported pastoralists for 100s of years. Because of their remoteness and their unique cultural and political structures, the Karamojong people are generally misunderstood and disrespected by other ethnic groups. In actuality, the Karamojong pathways have sustained their regional resources up until the 21st century. Now, climate change, the discovery of minerals, and pressures from neighboring farmers that want their land rights will test Karamojong’s resolve to remain independent.

unmarried women dance late afternoon when the men return with their livestock

unmarried women dance, a chance to bond and have fun

My brief time in Karamoja has stayed with me and I plan to return to this beautiful, misrepresented region soon.

travel notes

July 30, 2026

travel africa, Karamojong, Pastoralists, Karamoja

A drive into the Karamoja Region

July 30, 2026

travel africa, Karamojong, Pastoralists, Karamoja

July 30, 2026

travel africa, Karamojong, Pastoralists, Karamoja

July 24, 2026

Karamojong, Karamoja, travel africa, Pastoralists, African Agriculture, Uganda Birds, Twitchers

Holiday in Karamoja, Northeastern Uganda

July 24, 2026

Karamojong, Karamoja, travel africa, Pastoralists, African Agriculture, Uganda Birds, Twitchers

July 24, 2026

Karamojong, Karamoja, travel africa, Pastoralists, African Agriculture, Uganda Birds, Twitchers

Holiday in Karamoja, Northeastern Uganda

July 24, 2026

Heading North

I was on top of the world as we drove out of Mbale City early Sunday morning heading straight to Moroto. Away from the red mud and constant rain in the mountainous coffee growing region, where I lived. My house was in the village of Mufufu located in Manafwa District close to the border of Bududa District. The misty mountains of Bududa and Manafwa receive constant rain. Coffee plantations and cabbage farms had replaced the indigenous rain forest decades ago leaving the steep slopes prone to landslides. In fact, the road to Bududa could become so impassable during heavy rains, it was closed to all vehicular traffic at times.

Kanzira, on of the best Birders in Uganda!

White-headed buffalo weaver

Purple Roller, dry savannah

Red and Yellow Barbet, dry savannah

Purple Roller with 'tude

Ring-necked pigeon

Black-headed lapwing

Yellow-necked spurfowl

Silverbird (a flycatcher)

White-bellied go-away bird

White Crested Helmet Shrike, common but pretty

Black-throated seedeater

All that cold unstoppable rain was behind me for a week. By early afternoon my guide, Kanzira, and I were driving through the Pian Upe Game Reserve. Here the landscapes changed to open plains with the mountainous Kenyan border to the east of us. Our final destination would be Kidepo Valley National Park, Uganda’s northern most park. This is my first trip to Northern Uganda.

Village Tour

I was scheduled to spend the night in a Karamoja village outside of Moroto. Kara Tunga, a local travel agency, organized my stay. I was accompanied by a Karamojong woman in her late 20’s for the next 16 hours.

The livestock are well taken care of, I had not seen such beautiful chickens, cows, or goats anywhere else in Uganda.

Unmarried women dance and sing and interested suitors join in

There are many misconceptions, myths, and stories about the Karamojong people. As a visitor, it isn’t my place to judge or even try to interpret what is believable or not. I am simply curious about how people live together and how they care for the land that has always been home. The Karamoja region is absolutely stunning, and the Karamojong people, born of their environment, are custodians of their unique culture.

Women prepare millet beer, the drink that everyone enjoys

granary

Black Lives Matter in Karamoja

Karamoja men singing into the night.

Schedule:

Kanzira, an expert birding guide, spotted birds endemic to the region all afternoon
Late afternoon Karamojong village tour
Slept peacefully in my private mud hut
Kanzira picked me up early on Monday morning, continuing our trip to Kidepo Valley NP.

P was celebrating New Years with friends in Minnesota, a universe away from Northern Uganda. I couldn’t wait to tell him about my trip.

Happy Hour

July 12, 2026

“She twitches, recognizing my strength and charisma…”

Sunbird Hill, a rewilding and wildlife monitoring site

May 5, 2026

Link Bus Line - Regional Travel

All eyes were on me as I stood in the aisle en route to Fort Portal Jan 3, 2026. A much preferred position than sitting on an old bus seat that had been flattened by hundreds of passenger’s asses until it is little more than bits of ripped vinyl stretched over a metal frame.

I breathed a sigh of relief when we arrived at Fort Portal that afternoon. Located in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains, Fort Portal is one of Uganda’s prettiest cities. After a bit of site seeing, I was introduced to a driver who could take me to Sunbird Hill Monitoring and Rewinding Site (Sunbird Hill), my next destination. We left Fort Portal and motored through lush agricultural landscapes, towards Kibale National Park.

Sunbird Hill

Sunbird Hill is primarily a research facility that abuts Kibale National Park, one of my favorite national parks in Uganda. I was eager to learn more about their story of land reclamation, rewilding, and community involvement.

Upon arrival I was escorted to my treehouse feeling quite grand as I sat on my private veranda watching the birds and monkeys in the trees around me.

Sunbird Hill offers an entirely different experience than a typical lodge. Here I was staying right smack dab in privately-held forest with three acres of trails winding through the trees and swamps around me. I was immersed by nature and the possibilities for discovery.

The unmistakable call of chimpanzees started later that evening. Rushing down the treehouse steps, I followed the path into the forest and soon found a chimpanzee casually eating leaves in a tree along the property line between Sunbird Hill and Kibale. I watched him as he carefully plucked the choicest leaves. He was thoroughly comfortable with my presence.

The next morning, before daybreak, I woke to chimpanzees calling. Different groups were vocalizing from the forest around me. Dressing quickly, I walked down to the camp’s open kitchen to boil water for my coffee. It was still too dark to find chimps in the forest but I spotted elephant tracks everywhere. Forest elephants had stomped through camp to eat the Bird of Paradise flowers that were planted adjacent to the reception area. I had slept so soundly that I didn’t hear a sound the entire night!

Elephant food

Yellow Crested Wookpecker

After breakfast two Sunbird researchers came to take me on a guided forest walk. With them I saw the forest in an entirely different light. We observed insects, butterflies, birds, and four different types of primate species. The researchers are knowledgeable about all aspects of the local ecosystem and are a lot of fun to hang out with.

cicada

In the cool evening hour, I sprawled out on the couch and listened to the forest from my veranda as I sipped small glasses of whiskey. Although there are different lodging options at Sunbird Hill, plan to stay in a treehouse. Mine had a king-sized bed, a double, and a single sized futon, easily accommodating 4-5 people.

As comfortable as my treehouse was the surrounding forest was far too intriguing for me to stay put. On one of my solo afternoon walks several researchers from Kibale, with an armed ranger, walked over the property line ignoring me as they made their way towards the Sunbird Hill reception area. Thinking to myself “they are tracking chimpanzees!” I quietly sat behind a tree to watch the path. Soon four mother chimpanzees emerged from the bushes and crossed back into the Kibale forest with their young babies. Not making a sound, I watched until this small group of chimps disappeared into the shadows. They moved together so quietly, keeping one step ahead of the Kibale researchers.

Guests at Sunbird tailor their own experience, perhaps you want to visit the local community to learn about their culture. Perhaps you want to go bird watching, or learn about parrot introduction, or help inventory butterflies. Me? I just needed to chase monkeys and sleep in the forest canopy for a few nights. I reignited my sense of wonder at Sunbird Hill.

Spectacled Weaver

Black-headed Paradise Flycatcher

Vieillot's Black Weaver

Speckled Tinkerbird

Logistics of Camp

Sunbird Hill is a true eco-friendly compound. Expect bucket showers, HOT water is provided! Rooms do not have electricity; there will be solar-charged lanterns in your room; and a charging station is in the reception area.

Catered meals cost extra. I ordered breakfasts and suppers from the kitchen, though guests can request to cook their own meals too. Another option is to hire a boda boda driver to motor you to a restaurant in town. Any of these meal options should be organized in advance due to Sunbird Hill’s remote location.

If you are traveling to Kibale National Park I encourage you to spend a bit of time at Sunbird Hill either to learn more about the area’s ecosystem or to reignite your own sense of wonder in this beautiful corner of Uganda.

Photographing Insects… it’s really fun with like-minded hosts!

Last night in Buweswa

November 9, 2025

I scream for help; no one comes. I quietly listen. The man seems to be alone. He doesn’t have tools and will be unable to break open the shutters or doors with his bare hands.

A Walking Bird's Nest

August 20, 2025

Madagascar 2023

Everyone around me seems carefree and so light on their feet. Men and women greet each other on the street with a wave and a “inona vaovao?” We motor on to a newer forest that the community is reestablishing after the clear cut of yesterday. The forest already hosts an array of beautiful botanicals and wildlife though the canopy is very different than an old growth forest it offers hope for the future.

Birds fly high above us. Once in a while a curious one will land on a branch ahead just to peer down at us for a minute.

Up at 4:14

Hiking at 5:15

This is my ideal start to a day while on holiday

A lone brown lemur is busily munching on her breakfast of leaves noticing me but not really concerned. Usually, brown lemurs form social groups but this one must be unusually hungry and stayed back to finish sakafo marina.

fuchsia orchid petals are scattered across our paths in the woods this morning speaking to last night’s elfin soiree, maybe a brides maid’s party? I know the forest fairies attended. Dressed in their iridescent robes made of the Golden Spider’s silk because one straggler flitted around my head for two minutes this morning, ever curious. The sun sparkled against her robe as she flew away into the surrounding canopy.

We heard the Indri call throughout our morning hike. The various families are located deep in the forest and cry out to each other in the mornings. Then, on our fifth hour, there was a series of songs sung just a riverine away. I steadily followed Luc’s steps to the tree beneath the indri, who were now silent.

Impossible to count how many there were. The indri jump from tree to tree silently and quickly. Some share a cozy branch; others are perched in their own tree. The largest lemur from the family of primates that the world lost save for a few protected forests. One little fellow was quite perplexed when his father suddenly moved on, peering down at me as if I would help answer the question of why. Time passed quickly from the forest floor. I am fairly certain we walked under them at least once this morning. They must have looked down on my frizz of a hair style wondering how a bird’s nest could move like that.

Shifting priorities

August 20, 2025

Priorities shift
Attitudes may even change grudgingly
But our fears are the hardest to lose.

Madagascar 2022

I must look lost

Several people have asked me, what do you do all day?

I wave my hand with a flick of my wrist and answer in some sort of bebop rhythmic manner. Why would you want to know what I do?

I survive like my neighbor, though she doesn’t understand a word that leaves my lips.

I thrive like the hibiscus shrubs in my yards.

I teach the market vendor on my street bits of English in exchange for a better price on my pineapple and lentils.

I encourage the bread baker to keep trying to speak English so he can interview for a job in North America.

I discuss conservation issues with David who is studying to be a National Park guide.

In short, I talk, and I learn. My sponsor is the English Center of Antsirabe (ECA), the oldest English language school in Antsirabe. Students pile into crowded classrooms for 2 hours at night three times a week to learn American English. Their schedules come to a halt when they enter the center located behind the Christian radio station just off the main road, Avenue des Thermes. I am training to be a TEFL teacher which includes leading conversational sessions with ECA students.

Long held insecurities are ever present; lack of self-confidence, distorted self-image, anxiety. Unable to outrun them, they just came along for the ride. But I continue with my own language studies so I will one day be able to describe to the shop owner how delightful their store front is. I am learning how to teach a foreign language to a captive audience.

White Woman finding her step

August 20, 2025

Working in Madagascar in 2022

It is acceptable to call a Latina woman “white” here.

I learned that white women can’t walk alone after 5:30 PM. I found myself shopping for a few eggs after 5 one afternoon, popping into little shop after little shop without success. As I trudged home with my empty bag an angry gaunt man kept a half a step behind me, muttering all the way from city center. He yelled in anger after I unexpectedly slipped into my gated garden. I assumed he wanted money. He called to me for 20 minutes through the gate. Perhaps he was telling me “Go home ugly white woman.” I watch the time before I leave home now.

I don’t know if my language skills are improving, but my courage is. One day, being tired of my own company, I took a walk towards the supermarche for a chocolate bar, a splendid luxury on my stipend. After the encounter with the angry man last week, I walked a new route and found an old, cobbled lane that runs behind the French cathedral. It’s lined with individually owned stands, each one specializing in different products. There is less hustle and bustle on this stretch, the shop people patiently wait for me as I stretch my Malagasy skills.

The stand at the end of the road features 4-5 baskets of different greens caught my eye. We were having a terrible time communicating with one another. Due to my hunger for her greens and the shopowner’s determination to make a sale we found a neighbor man to help with the transaction. Problem solved!

All of my stipend is spent on food. Baskets of fresh produce are sold everywhere, at the markets, along every lane, on the corners, and there are even sellers that walk up and down the streets selling their specialty from a basket balanced on their head. Yet I am down to my college weight, skinny and tanned.

Kazinga Channel Uganda

August 18, 2025

Our private boat ride on the Kazinga Channel began well after sunrise. Our expectations were high after reading reviews from other photographers describing the abundance of wildlife along the banks and in the channel. Photographers recommended hiring our private boat so we could take our time at sitings to compose photographs at our pace.

Expectations Adjusted

It was a very bright and sunny day to start with, well after the glow of early morning hours had burned away. We waited for our skipper to ready the vessel then off we went into the sun. Peter and I gamely kept our spirits optimistic during the boat ride but the little wildlife we saw sat stoically still, watching us closely as we floated past. We did not encounter the herds of wildlife that so many other photographers have posted from the very same boat ride.

Our private Kazinga Channel experience was simply a birding exhibition. Birds’ common to swamps across Africa such as herons, skimmers, and stilts. We were disappointed at the time but did realize no one can choreograph herds of zebra, antelope, or elephant.

Palm Nut Vulture

Wahlberg's Eagle

By definition, wildlife are wild creatures. They move and migrate throughout Queen Elizabeth National Park. We were lucky for the opportunity to boat on the Kazinga Channel together surrounded by birds and with the knowledge that this is a special place in Uganda. We never know what will happen in nature.

Grey-headed Kingfisher

Blue-Cheeked Bee-eater

Pied Kingfisher

Whattled Lapwing

Great (white-breasted) Cormorant

African Skimmers

Featured

August 17, 2025

Black-lored Babbler

August 17, 2025

African Green Pigeons

August 17, 2025

Finally got a shot of the African Green Pigeon species

August 17, 2025

Lugogo Swamp

August 9, 2025

African Green Pigeon

Hadaba Ibis

Speckled Mousebird

These were long shots for my 400 lens, but chasing birds is still loads of fun.

An early morning boat ride through the Lugogo Swamp is what I was sold. Instead we walked on a brand new tarred road that has efficiently dissected the Lugogo Swamp into two. All signs of shoebill storks have evaporated.

I did see new bird species on the walk but was greatly disappointed since I was expecting an in-tact swamp ecosystem, so very rare.