As an avid home cook with a constant craving for fresh ingredients you will find me at the local food markets around the Front Range or wherever I happen to be. There aren’t a lot of travel companions that share my obsession.

Whilst traveling with my friend Nina in Madagascar she called out to the bus driver to stop throughout the trip to purchase fresh produce from roadside stands. I immediately recognized her compulsion. On that five hour trip we hopped off the bus to purchase bok choy in Tana and hung out of our windows to buy freshly picked berries from ladies sitting on the RN7 to Antsirabe. We arrived with tote bags full of vegetables and fruit.

A month later I moved into my city flat. Time to stock the larder!

I carefully selected my outfit, arranging my hair under a sunhat, and placing cash strategically in various pockets.  The first market I visited, Tsenakely, was a quick walk from my flat. The stalls are organized under an old colonial open-air building.

Muddy

Vendors calling out to me

I was ecstatic over my finds but also realized that I spent double what I had expected.

I was desperate to hone my bartering abilities and texted my tutor to begin Malagasy lessons pronto.

Tutor

Flash cards repetition

Shopping

Walking

Observation

Calm patience

To understand another language is more than linguistical accuracy, a cultural understanding is at play. Nina was also my Malagasy tutor. She provided an outline of language objectives but balanced structured learning to my personality. As an observer I would arrive at her house with questions about cultural expectations trying to make sense of my new environment, taking newly learned Malagasy phrases to try out at the market.

Nina was my first teacher, shopping for food was my second teacher.

After 11 months in-country I spoke in a rhythm that was understandable. As my confidence grew I met more people, had more fun, and got better bargains for my produce!

Politeness comes first, the international tendency to greet one another with respect

Watch eyes and body language

Purchase directly from growers when possible