Regional Travel
All eyes were on me as I stood in the aisle en route to Fort Portal Jan 3, 2026. A much preferred position than sitting on an old bus seat that had been flattened by hundreds of passenger’s asses until it is little more than bits of ripped vinyl stretched over a metal frame.
I breathed a sigh of relief when we arrived at Fort Portal that afternoon. Located in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains, Fort Portal is one of Uganda’s prettiest cities. After a bit of site seeing in Fort Portal, I was introduced to a driver who could take me to Sunbird Hill Monitoring and Rewinding Site (Sunbird Hill), my next destination. We left Fort Portal and motored through lush agricultural landscapes towards Kibale National Park.
Chimpanzee in Kibale seen from the Sunbird Hill side of the park boundary
Sunbird Hill
Sunbird Hill is primarily a research facility that abuts Kibale Forest. I had visited Kibale on several occasions, it is one of my favorite national parks in Uganda, but had never visited Sunbird Hill. I was eager to learn more about their story of land reclamation, rewilding, and community involvement.
Upon arrival I was escorted to my treehouse feeling quite grand as I sat on my private veranda watching the birds and monkeys in the trees around me. I have stayed at several lodges around Kibale; Sunbird Hill offers an entirely different experience. Here I was staying right smack dab in the forest with three acres of trails winding through the trees and swamps around me. I was immersed by the forest, its sounds, and the possibilities for discovery.
The unmistakable call of chimpanzees started later that evening. Rushing down the treehouse steps, I followed the path into the forest and soon found a chimpanzee casually eating leaves in a tree along the property line between Sunbird Hill and Kibale. I watched him as he carefully plucked the choicest leaves. He was thoroughly comfortable with my presence.
The next morning, before daybreak, I woke up to chimpanzees calling. Different groups were vocalizing from the forest around me. Dressing quickly, I walked down to the camp’s open kitchen to boil water for my coffee. It was still too dark to find chimps in the forest but I spotted elephant tracks everywhere. Forest elephants had stomped through camp to eat the Birds of Paradise flowers that were planted adjacent to the reception area. I had slept so soundly that I didn’t hear a sound the entire night!
After breakfast two Sunbird researchers came to take me on a guided forest walk. With them I saw the forest in an entirely different light. We observed insects, butterflies, birds, and four different types of primate species. The researchers are knowledgeable about all aspects of the local ecosystem and are a lot of fun to hang out with.
In the cool evening hour, I sprawled out on the couch and listened to the forest from my private veranda as I sipped small glasses of whiskey. Although there are different lodging options at Sunbird Hill, plan to stay in a treehouse. Mine had a king-sized bed, a double, and a single sized futon, easily accommodating 4-5 people.
As comfortable as my treehouse was the surrounding forest was far too intriguing for me to stay put. On one of my solo afternoon walks several researchers from Kibale, with a ranger, came over the property line ignoring me as they made their way towards the Sunbird Hill reception area. Thinking to myself “they are tracking chimpanzees!” I quietly sat behind a tree to watch the path. Soon four mother chimpanzees emerged from the bushes and crossed back into the Kibale forest with their young babies. Not making a sound, I watched until this small group of chimps disappeared into the shadows. They moved together so quietly, keeping one step ahead of the Kibble researchers.
Guests at Sunbird tailor their own experience, perhaps you want to visit the local community to learn about their culture. Perhaps you want to go bird watching, or learn about parrot introduction, or help inventory butterflies. Me? I just needed to chase monkeys and sleep in the forest canopy for a few nights. I reignited my sense of wonder within 2 and a half days.
Red Tailed Monkeys at Sunbird Hill
Logistics of Camp
Sunbird Hill is a true eco-friendly compound. Expect bucket showers, HOT water is provided! Rooms do not have electricity; there will be solar-charged lanterns in your room; and a charging station is in the reception area.
Catered meals cost extra, for convenience’s sake I ordered breakfasts and suppers, though guests can request to cook their own meals too. Another option is to hire a boda boda driver to motor you to a restaurant in town. Any of these meal options should be organized in advance due to Sunbird Hill’s remote location.
If you are traveling to Kibale National Park I encourage you to spend a bit of time at Sunbird Hill either to learn more about the area’s ecosystem or to reignite your own sense of wonder in this beautiful corner of Uganda.
Chimpanzee extracting fruit juice at Sunbird Hill
