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Michelle Bontrager

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Cycling through the Garden Route, South Africa

February 23, 2024

The Western Cape of South Africa has been on my radar ever since I owned my herbery - garden shop. Invariably my favorite species to sell originated from South Africa, specifically the Western Cape region. This incredible terrain hosts 3% of the world’s plant species, translating to a mind blowing 1300 species/ 10,000Km. We can thank the 19th century English explorers for putting this region on the naturalist’s world map as wealthy Victorian adventurers clamored throughout the Western Cape harvesting plants for their Queen at home. 

Funny how social media has made these far off places suddenly seem so attainable. One day last December I saw a Western Cape gravel grinder promoted on my Insta feed. Suddenly I was transported to pristine mountain passes, cycling through lush valleys with the hot sun on my face. I wistfully mentioned the tour to my husband and he generously signed me up. With only 3 weeks to ready myself I was off to South Africa on my dream vacation.

The tour did not end up being what I expected at all, four words, Corrugations and more Corrugations. 

Turns out gravel grinding in South Africa can. be intense. I arrived in Cape Town with my Surly Travelers Check, two days before the tour was to begin, allowing myself a couple of nights to acclimate and build my bike. My B&B hostess gave me a giant bear hug and sent me off with best wishes for the week ahead. 

Schedule:

Monday: “Quick” misty evening ride outside of George. A test of our wits perhaps?

Tuesday: George to Oudtshoorn - 70K (approx) - Outeniqua Mountains

This proved to be one of my favorite days. We rode through indigenous forests of the Witfontein Nature Reserve then into mountain fynbos terrain. It was a cloudy, misty day perfect weather for strenuous climbs. Montagu Pass was the climb of the day, here we encountered 4 mountain bikers and 2 vehicles. Blissfully low-key compared to Colorado traffic.

late afternoon in the Klein Karoo

Wednesday: Oudtshoorn to Eagle Falls - 84K (approx) - Klein Karoo

A blazing hot day with a lot of long ascents through farmland. I got swept but after a quick break in the car I hopped back on the saddle to finish the ride. We reached our lodge by climbing 1000 feet from the main road and then braiied with a rainstorm brewing around us.

Thursday: Eagle Falls to Uniondale 70k (at least) Klein Karoo

We cycled through the Holdrif Valley farmland. I remember being very relieved to reach our accommodations located on a very tidy sheep farm.

Friday: Uniondale to Knysna 70k (approx)

Crossed the Langkloof Mountains from the Klein Karoo to the Garden Route. We completed  several passes including Prince Alfred’s pass. The descent into Knysna was paved and fast!

Saturday: Knysna to Wilderness 76k Garden Route

We accomplished the Seven Passes Road this day although we were told that we only completed 5 of the 7 passes. I was too hot and tired to go to the beach, which Wilderness is known for. 

This was my first time joining an organized bicycle tour and there were some frustrations along the way.

  • I rode much slower than the men, initially making me feel inadequately prepared but soon enough I realized they were drinking beers while waiting for me to catch up! 

  • The distances and terrain took me by surprise, but isn’t that the best kind of day? 

What I learned:

Embrace the unknown once in awhile

Allow yourself to be uncomfortable, these are the conditions in which we find our strength

Grow your health when given the opportunity

Don't worry what others think about your abilities, they are too busy thinking about themselves

Remember the good moments when you feel discouraged.

This tour was a wonderful introduction to a region of the world that has peripherally intrigued me for a long time. Sure I bit off more than I could comfortably chew but I pushed myself harder physically than I have for a long time.  Now that I have had a generous taste for what South Africa has to offer I am sure to return.

View fullsize I got swept
I got swept
View fullsize Orchards in the Klein Karoo
Orchards in the Klein Karoo
View fullsize Catch my breath
Catch my breath
View fullsize cycling buddies for the week
cycling buddies for the week

below are quick links to my photo albums of Kirstenbosch Gardens and Table Mountain NP of this tirp. When can I go back?

An afternoon in Cape Town before the bike tourKirstenbosch National Botanic Garden blog link

An afternoon in Cape Town before the bike tour

Kirstenbosch National Botanic Garden blog link

An afternoon in Cape Town after the bike tourTable Mountain blog link

An afternoon in Cape Town after the bike tour

Table Mountain blog link


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Cycling through the Garden Route, South Africa
Feb 23, 2024
Cycling through the Garden Route, South Africa
Feb 23, 2024
Feb 23, 2024
Bicycle Tour in the New Year
Jan 19, 2022
Bicycle Tour in the New Year
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Midsummer in Kirstenbosch Gardens, Cape Town ZA
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Midsummer in Kirstenbosch Gardens, Cape Town ZA
Jan 21, 2020
Jan 21, 2020



In african travel Tags bicycle tour, garden route, South Africa, garden route cycle tour, cycle the cape, women bicycle
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Summer in Cape Town

Bicycle Tour in the New Year

January 19, 2022

Waking up from three days of Covid Haze I faced the first day of 2022. I swung my feet over the side of the bed, staggered to the kitchen to turn on the kettle before finally settling on the couch in front of the fire. I, the one who prefers to cook and bake at home on holidays, had been persuaded to attend a Christmas party. My hesitant sociability was rewarded with a bad case of Covid-19. 

The last unmasked event I had attended, before Covid, was a EDM concert downtown in January 2020. We danced and were invited to meet the DJs. It was a carefree urban type of night that acclimated me back to Denver having just returned from a 9-day cycle tour in South Africa. 

A South African bicycle tour operator had popped up on my Instagram feed in December 2019. I immediately signed up to join the group and in three week’s time I was on a flight to Cape Town. I took a couple of days in Constantia to sightsee and build my bicycle from the travel case. That Monday morning the tour operator collected me and the rest of the group and we drove out to the Garden Route to start our tour.

Touring Schedule Part 1:

Monday: The five of us cyclists got to know one another on the drive to George. We were a non-competitive group out to enjoy the summer weather. I was amazed that the guys from England had traveled all the way to Cape Town to attend a cricket tournament held the week before and they were equally amazed that I would fly in just to ride my bike. Before dinner we took a quick ride in the evening mist, a test of our wits perhaps? The face paced ride was the perfect warm up for the next day.

Tuesday: George to Oudtshoorn - 70K (approx.) - Outeniqua Mountains

This proved to be one of my favorite cycling days. We rode through indigenous forests of the Witfontein Nature Reserve then into mountain fynbos terrain. It was a cloudy, rainy day perfect weather for strenuous climbs. Montagu Pass was the climb of the day, here we encountered 4 mountain bikers and 2 vehicles., blissfully low-key compared to Colorado traffic. 

View fullsize Witfontein Nature Reserve
View fullsize Montagu Pass
View fullsize Surly Traveler's Check touring bike

The world has experienced a seismic shift since my January 2020 bicycle trip. I don’t expect to return to indoor dance concerts or any other indoor social events for awhile, but I do plan to return to bicycle touring this year. 12 weeks has always been my optimal training time. The time commitment is probably the hardest part of the program next to winter conditions. Let us see where I’ll be in April or May.


An afternoon in Cape Town before the bike tour

Kirstenbosch National Botanic Garden blog link

An afternoon in Cape Town after the bike tour

Table Mountain blog link




In african travel Tags bicycle tour, garden route, South Africa, garden route cycle tour, cycle the cape, women bicycle
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