Epupa Falls
It’s been 11 months since I slept along the Kunene River. We drank the water, because our camp host said it would make us strong. He might have been right but I also think it steeped into my cells impressing the beauty of the surroundings directly onto my being. I am sad that I won’t be there again for a while but then wasn’t I lucky to pitch my tent on it’s banks, listening to the owls at night.
One clear, bright morning a local man, Kamburu, introduced us to a few Himba villagers. He is based in Epupa Falls, but frequently travels throughout southwestern Africa. It would be difficult for us, as tourists, to cross the Kunene River into Angola but residents of region do not recognize the Kunene River as a boundary. They cross freely to visit family and friends for this has always been their region.
Kamburu is a delightful, informative guide and this is what I learned;
the Himba traditions have survived colonialism, rinderpest, and war but it is uncertain if they will survive global climate change.
Himba women are certainly beautiful but their morning rituals take at least 4 hours a day. Clothes, jewelry, hair, ochre paste rubbed onto their entire bodies- this takes time!
Himba men take pride in their appearance too, their ensembles are striking.
We can all take lessons on how to do with less water and still smell fantastic.
That morning I was in awe with this vibrant community that happily adheres to their ancient traditions. These traditions and religious beliefs provide a stable societal structure. Individuals lean on their community for virtually everything. The cooking, child raising, and livestock grazing, are all taken care of as a group. There is a bit of materialism, even competition, present within the Himba village, but their materialism is so insignificant compared to what I see in my own U.S. American society. That morning I listened to jokes and saw love directed to the children, there was a calmness I don’t experience often.
Certainly there are some very complicated issues facing the Himba communities of northern Namibia ranging from long-lasting drought, the state of rangelands & perennial grasses, to the everlasting threat from the government to dam the Kunene River even further. I wish Kamburu and his community the strength and wisdom in addressing these problems.
Opuwo, Namibia
Kamburu and me saying goodbye.
