Indulging Peter of his thrill for birding I accompanied him to Florida’s Gulf Coast for the Thanksgiving Weekend. Florida’s Caribbean environment was humid and buggy, just perfect for bird life! We spent most of our time on Sanibel Island exploring the JN Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge. Not your typical beach vacation but I kayaked for the first time and shot a lot of birds I’d never seen before.
Self Supported Camping in Namibia, Feb. 2018
Courtship with my current husband was a series of backpacking trips throughout Colorado during our first summer together. Peter took care of all of the details, even preparing freshly brewed coffee for me at first morning light. I was hooked. The novelty of sleeping out in a tent, waking up to the sounds of nature is something I look forward to every summer since.
Several years ago Peter upped the ante by signing us up for a two-week overland/camping trip in Botswana. I came back home talking of little else convincing my brother to consider travel to Africa. Self-driving tours of Southern Africa are amazingly easy to plan. There are many rental companies that provide fully equipped 4X4s so you simply show up and drive away. Ah, but then there is the question of a route!
My brother, Ethan, and I began planning a Namibian road trip in early 2017, obsessively reading blogs, watching YouTube, and making lists. He would be the driver and this directionally challenged cyclist would plan the route.
Gemsbok, Etosha NP
waterhole in Western Etosha NP
We planned to camp along the way and do our own cooking, mostly because we enjoy cooking outside but also not knowing if there would be restaurants along our rural explorations. Ethan’s girlfriend Chris gamely decided to join us a month before we left and she proved to be the best animal spotter in this group.
brief encounter, somewhere in Namibia
Other than Epupa Falls, located on the Northern border of Namibia, Ethan didn’t express much opinion of what he wanted to see. I decided to cover a lot of the country. We were undaunted by the distances being from the American Southwest the three of us are accustomed to long road trips.
Camping out in Namibia was an absolute blast. All of the campsites had flushing toilets, showers, drinkable tap water, and a braai area in which to cook. The Etosha NP campgrounds were the most trodden, much like the big campgrounds in Yellowstone USA, but the Namibian camp sites were exceptionally clean. We chose to camp at Etosha 2 nights and stay at a lodge 2 nights, our only lodge accommodation for the entire trip. The lodge options in Namibia cover a wide spectrum of experiences but we kept to the theme of a camping trip instead.
There was one day that I misnavigated our route. That was the day we punctured 2 tires and the campground was below our now elevated standard. But my travel companions were good sports, all of our other experiences made up for the one dud of a day. Seriously a not-so-perfect day in Namibia is a day offering a bit of adventure from home.
I feel confident that we will all return to Africa again. Next time I will be careful not to arrive with expectations but to just be ready to learn and perhaps strive to be more thoughtful. There is something to be said for the unknown to keep life interesting. When I have the opportunity to travel abroad I look forward to being outside of my comfort zone, which this trip did achieve. My lust for travel was re-ignited in Namibia, I don’t think I will wait 3 years for my next 2-week vacation.
Lodging and Campsites
Halali Camp, Eastern Etosha
Dolomite Camp, Western Etosha
Hauchabfontein Camping in Naukluft Mt.
sunset to stars
Yes, I alone directed the sky that night
galaxies above so bright
a humble camp bathed in magic and moonlight.
Venus winked through the stillness
she then turned her course for that far horizon
in the cold morning hour.
from camp outside of Sossusvlei
Epupa Falls and Himba Village along the Kunene
Epupa Falls
It’s been 11 months since I slept along the Kunene River. We drank the water, because our camp host said it would make us strong. He might have been right but I also think it steeped into my cells impressing the beauty of the surroundings directly onto my being. I am sad that I won’t be there again for a while but then wasn’t I lucky to pitch my tent on it’s banks, listening to the owls at night.
One clear, bright morning a local man, Kamburu, introduced us to a few Himba villagers. He is based in Epupa Falls, but frequently travels throughout southwestern Africa. It would be difficult for us, as tourists, to cross the Kunene River into Angola but residents of region do not recognize the Kunene River as a boundary. They cross freely to visit family and friends for this has always been their region.
Kamburu is a delightful, informative guide and this is what I learned;
the Himba traditions have survived colonialism, rinderpest, and war but it is uncertain if they will survive global climate change.
Himba women are certainly beautiful but their morning rituals take at least 4 hours a day. Clothes, jewelry, hair, ochre paste rubbed onto their entire bodies- this takes time!
Himba men take pride in their appearance too, their ensembles are striking.
We can all take lessons on how to do with less water and still smell fantastic.
That morning I was in awe with this vibrant community that happily adheres to their ancient traditions. These traditions and religious beliefs provide a stable societal structure. Individuals lean on their community for virtually everything. The cooking, child raising, and livestock grazing, are all taken care of as a group. There is a bit of materialism, even competition, present within the Himba village, but their materialism is so insignificant compared to what I see in my own U.S. American society. That morning I listened to jokes and saw love directed to the children, there was a calmness I don’t experience often.
Certainly there are some very complicated issues facing the Himba communities of northern Namibia ranging from long-lasting drought, the state of rangelands & perennial grasses, to the everlasting threat from the government to dam the Kunene River even further. I wish Kamburu and his community the strength and wisdom in addressing these problems.
Opuwo, Namibia
Kamburu and me saying goodbye.
Detail of Dune Ripples
Early Morning in Sossusvlei
On our Namibian Photographic Safari last September my friends and I chartered helicopters for a very early bird’s eye view of Sossusvlei, in the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Three of us were seated in each helicopter ensuring that we all had a “window” seat but since the helicopter’s doors had been removed we were blissfully unencumbered by any windows at all. We had an absolute blast shooting video and photographs of the highest dunes of Namibia. Having never flown in a helicopter before I was literally shaking from sensory overload by the time we landed. Here are my favorite images from that very memorable day…
Several of my travel companions have uploaded their Namibian photographers on Flickr. Here are links to their photographs:
Anthony is a Canon man
Steve is a Nikon man
Jamie Thom, our Nikon toting guide, posted photos on his website.
Sunset, Etosha February 2018
Indifferent to Time
Love, lightness
is the same
at times unseen
Not pure
by any means
I am vital
as you are
There is no difference
in my eye
We are but vessels
never vacant
Open to light
indifferent to time.
Boulders at Spitzkoppe
Sptizkoppe
The temperature started to rise as we headed inland from Swakopmund into the surreal landscape of the Erongo Mountain region. Herds of zebra, springbok, and ostrich sporadically watched us from the side of the road as we pushed onward to the Spitzkoppen Lodge, our beds for the night. The Spitzkoppen Lodge is nestled against mounds of giant granite boulders arranged by Mother Nature a millennium ago. The lodge grounds and chalets are artfully designed to blend with the natural environment providing an aura of sustainability and relaxation. Upon our arrival we were greeted with a tray of fresh juice, reviving us for an afternoon of landscape photography.
I had briefly traveled through this region once before and looked forward to my revisit with a camera. Unfortunately the light was dull this afternoon, the sky was heavy with clouds blocking the sun entirely. We waited and waited and waited and spent most of our time climbing boulders and socializing.
We ended our evening with a delightful multi-course meal comprised of local flavors. Delicious food and good company! I was a wee bit sad that we had to leave this oasis the next morning but we were expected at our next camp in the Damaraland.
The Matterhorn of Namibia viewed from a boulder field, in morning
brief moment of morning light before our departure from Spitzkoppe
Namibian Travel Adventure
September 2018
I have been traveling by myself for decades, taking the chance to be myself without the risk of disappointing travel companions I suppose.
There have been times when I have traveled with a group. In these situations I carefully conduct myself in an anonymous manner free to break away on my own terms. But there was that one trip, a few years back, when I happened upon a group of photographers who I thoroughly enjoyed traveling with. We all met on safari in Botswana by happenstance. Can this independent traveler tolerate spending 2 weeks in a 4x4 truck with complete strangers sharing meals, stories, and conversation for days on end in the African bush? Hella Yeah!
It was such an enjoyable experience that I contacted everyone to join me on a Namibian road trip which we just returned from this September.
Several members of our original group opted out but two new photographers joined in their stead. We all bonded through our common interest in wildlife photography and environmental conservation. Other connections formed organically as the days marched on. Jamie Thom, owner of Conservation Safari Company, expertly served as our travel guide organizing all of the little details that any group of photographers would require. He deftly kept an eye out to make sure all of us were engaged with the sightings we encountered, offering photography tips and creative ideas for us to explore along the journey.
Meet my crew
Damaraland
3 Californians who brought levity and artisanal rum to the group. Quick with the latest urban slang I had to stay on my toes to keep up with all of their hip cultural references.
2 South Africans. There isn’t a more charming man in the world than one from South Africa (excluding my husband of course). Friendly, attentive, and ready for levity our South African companions balanced out the loco Americans.
1 quirky brunette. I’m quick to laugh with a tendency to take solitary walks while others are sleeping.
shooting Spitzkoppe
Walvis Bay
Africa has been become my favorite continent to visit for so many reasons, the wild environments being the first. I find that I learn a little bit more about myself when I am abroad, in a totally different environment. This time my lessons were learned with friends.
Happy Hour before dinner outside of Sossusvlei
Spitzkoppe
Deadvlei in the Namib-Naukluft National Park
Nambia: Sossusvlei and Deadvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park
I planted the seed for a Namibian trip with a group of my photographer friends, who like to travel, over a year ago. We met on an African Safari led by Jamie Thom, owner of Conservation Safari Company, in Botswana three years back. We knew that, as a professional photographer, Jamie would take our interests to heart so we immediately contacted him to guide our next adventure. After a few communications back and forth, Jamie tailored a Namibian itinerary specifically to our group’s interests.
Photographers are a special lot with specific requirements;
A driver capable of positioning the 4x4 for optimal shots
Sufficient amount of outlets, in our vehicle, allowing everyone to charge camera batteries and various electronics
Flexible mealtimes, photographers will only return to camp when photographic opportunities are exhausted, usually after dark.
Our ten-day exploration of Namibia was filled with new experiences beginning with 3 days of camping in and around the Namib-Naukluft National Park. On our first day together we were up before dawn, downed quick cups of tea, and then hightailed it to the park to witness the sunrise over the dunes of Sossusvlei.
Here are a few of my shots from that first day out in the Namib desert concentrating on the dunes of Sossusvlei and of Deadvlei.
Our Camp outside of Sossusvlei
Namibian Adventure
Here is the video that Jamie Thom of Conservation Safari Company compiled of our Namibian Photography Safari, September 2018.
Northern New Mexico, a renewal
morning fog along Old Highway 64
A weekend in Northern New Mexico
Land of Mesas and Canyons
Land of enchantment
Land of color
This is just the place to reconnect with one that means so much to me. We took off one Friday morning from Denver, chatting non-stop for 5 hours straight. Once best of friends we both had stories to tell. This was to be a weekend of shared exploration and this is what we found;
Taos
The Plaza, a short walk from our rental, was where we;
Watched the cruisers circle the plaza Saturday night
Ate chocolate at Chokola
Admired art, fine to kitschy
Echo Canyon Amphitheater
Echo Canyon Amphitheater
Echo Canyon amphitheater
Saturday morning we drove to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, it was completely fogged in. Much to Garth’s delight we would not be able to to take in the grand views from one of America’s highest bridges, instead we continued through the fog along Old Highway 64 turning south on hwy 84 where we found the Echo Canyon Amphitheater. A theater carved out of rock millions of years ago by Mother Nature. We enjoyed an easy walk amidst the natural landscape encompassed by the aroma of sage, herbs, juniper and pinon trees.
Rock Art
Rock Art
Our Spanish ancestors interrupted a natural continuum that some would argue in the most disruptive manner possible. New Mexican history runs deep, it has never been passive.
Rock Art
Ghost Ranch
Named for the brujas or witches that once inhabited the valley. Georgia O'Keeffe maintained a small bungalow on Ghost Ranch taking her time to portray the surrounding landscapes in her art. Numerous artists, past and present, have been inspired by this valley.
Abiquiu
Abiquiu
Georgia O’Keeffe lived and worked in this village, on top of a mesa, for 40 years. Her historic adobe house is now a museum.
Dixon
Highway 68 follows the Rio Grande gorge, we pulled into Dixon for lunch. The Spanish dialect spoken here, and throughout Northern New Mexico, reflects the language of the 16th century Spanish settlers. We happily:
bought organic apples at roadside stands including Velarde Orchards, an orchard dating back to 1598
shopped for New Mexican goods at the Dixon Market, a locally managed Co-operative
ate enchiladas at Zuly’s Cafe
Rio Grande del Norte National Monument
On the way home to Colorado we stopped at the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument for an invigorating hike down and then up the gorge.
There is a beautiful mosaic of cultures in Northern New Mexico where the Spanish and the Native Americans have forged relationships since the 16th century, sometimes in harmony and other times not. The Anglo minority have assimilated into this patchwork creating a sense of community like no other region in the American South West. We felt revitalized by the people we met; by the expanses of pinon trees and sage brush. Perhaps some would see a harsh environment but there is a pureness to be enjoyed. It is the place where we are welcome, where we belong.
Garth eating wild water cress
Namibia; Walvis Bay and Sandwich Harbour
There was a day on my last trip to Namibia in which my travel companions and I hired a guiding company to drive us from Walvis Bay to Sandwich Harbour. Our guides deftly maneuvered their Land Cruisers along the ever-shifting shoreline and then up & down massive sand dunes.
Hyena trotting along the Atlantic coastline
We were deposited on top of a sand mountain, left to witness the ancient dune sea of the Namib Desert greet the Atlantic Ocean. It was a beautiful afternoon shared with my travel companions. Here are a few of my images from that day.
Dunes
Sand
Climb
Wind
Curves
Play
safe harbour
Link here to a brief article about Sandwich Harbor by Travel News Namibia.